TIPS For Purchasing Pre-Owned Bikes
Wheels & Tires - wheels could be steel, aluminum or carbon depending on your budget. In all cases make sure the wheels run true with no excessive wobbles. Minor wobbles can be corrected by adjusting spoke tension with aluminum wheels. If steel is badly bent they are probably ready for the garbage bin. Unlikely to ever see a wobbly carbon wheel, they usually break before distorting. Check the tires for any excessive wear including side wall conditions like bulges, cracks or tears.
Axles, Wheels & Head Sets - often overlooked but can be expensive is bottom bracket, axle and headset repair. If there is side to side movement or looseness in these areas it often means new bearings, races and cups. I see many that are just plain dried out with worn out bearings simply because of lack of maintenance.
Derailleurs & Shifters - ensure that the handlebar controls activate both the front and rear derailleurs. Some can be serviced, the lower end rotary shifters generally have to be replaced. The rear derailleur is attached to the bike frame with a hanger, often seen bent if the bike has been dropped or hit on the derailleur side. If the hanger is aluminum it can sometimes be repaired but often has to be replaced. Sometimes the problem is simply the cable which takes me to the next point.
Cables & Housing - cables will stretch and can rust over time, especially if the housing is cracked, broken or just worn out. Cables and housing are not expensive and should be examined and replaced if necessary. Excessive friction or stiffness could be an indicator of a problem.
Chain & Cassette - hard to determine chain wear without a special chain checker tool. If the chain looks dirty, rusty and dry it may be worn out and/or if the cassette teeth have excessive wear the gear changing will not be smooth and may jump from chain ring to chain ring. Although part of the overall drive train on a bike this is probably the most neglected part I see on bikes.
Brakes - whether they be rim or disc (manual or hydraulic), pull the handlebar levers and feel for smooth operation and engagement at the wheel. Issues like worn pads, cables and housing once again can determine safe and proper operation of the brakes, sometimes just a matter of adjustment over time. If hydraulic levers are pulling close to the handlebar the system probably needs to be bled and re-charged.
Frame - the frame material can again be steel, aluminum or carbon fibre. In all cases check for cracks or visible flaws because if the frame is damaged the rest of the bike is generally useless. Overall check for rust if it is a steel frame. Keep in mind that carbon fiber has a torque setting for pretty much every nut and bolt. If over tightened the carbon will crack and is very difficult and costly to repair. Read my previous post regarding frame materials for more information.
[email protected] - the best place to check if you are looking at a bike and have any questions, doubts or need a second opinion.
Axles, Wheels & Head Sets - often overlooked but can be expensive is bottom bracket, axle and headset repair. If there is side to side movement or looseness in these areas it often means new bearings, races and cups. I see many that are just plain dried out with worn out bearings simply because of lack of maintenance.
Derailleurs & Shifters - ensure that the handlebar controls activate both the front and rear derailleurs. Some can be serviced, the lower end rotary shifters generally have to be replaced. The rear derailleur is attached to the bike frame with a hanger, often seen bent if the bike has been dropped or hit on the derailleur side. If the hanger is aluminum it can sometimes be repaired but often has to be replaced. Sometimes the problem is simply the cable which takes me to the next point.
Cables & Housing - cables will stretch and can rust over time, especially if the housing is cracked, broken or just worn out. Cables and housing are not expensive and should be examined and replaced if necessary. Excessive friction or stiffness could be an indicator of a problem.
Chain & Cassette - hard to determine chain wear without a special chain checker tool. If the chain looks dirty, rusty and dry it may be worn out and/or if the cassette teeth have excessive wear the gear changing will not be smooth and may jump from chain ring to chain ring. Although part of the overall drive train on a bike this is probably the most neglected part I see on bikes.
Brakes - whether they be rim or disc (manual or hydraulic), pull the handlebar levers and feel for smooth operation and engagement at the wheel. Issues like worn pads, cables and housing once again can determine safe and proper operation of the brakes, sometimes just a matter of adjustment over time. If hydraulic levers are pulling close to the handlebar the system probably needs to be bled and re-charged.
Frame - the frame material can again be steel, aluminum or carbon fibre. In all cases check for cracks or visible flaws because if the frame is damaged the rest of the bike is generally useless. Overall check for rust if it is a steel frame. Keep in mind that carbon fiber has a torque setting for pretty much every nut and bolt. If over tightened the carbon will crack and is very difficult and costly to repair. Read my previous post regarding frame materials for more information.
[email protected] - the best place to check if you are looking at a bike and have any questions, doubts or need a second opinion.
